August 1 - Travel to El Salvador tomorrow

Wow this is late. And couldn't even remember my blog address!!! Good thing I don't go on coffee breaks - have to retrain.

Anyway, this is Phyllis and my 3rd trip to El Salvador to help drill water wells, teach hygiene (keep the live chickens off the dinner table, etc.) and demonstrate God's love. But, the first trip where the hotel where we're staying has a web connection. See if I can keep up - the work day's often long, and tiring.

I'll try posting a couple of maps...

And a couple of pics from last May...

Day 10 - 11: Jerusalem, Tel Aviv, back home

Oh, what a trip!

We're all back now, still trying to 'process' everything we saw, felt, heard, smelled. That'll take a few days.

On Saturday we drove from Jerusalem (this was the Sabbath, so the Orthodox were home while the Secular were out picnicing, hiking, etc.)...

...first to a hill overlooking Bethlehem and a field perhaps similar to where the shepherds were minding their flock... A Palestinian lady brought her small herd and a lamb, which all the women had to hold, and give a tip to the shepherd lady...

On to Bet Guvrin - some caves in soft limestone/ chalk that had been mined a long time ago. Discovered by a soldier who fell through an opening while on a night exercise.

To the Elah Valley where David slew Goliath. Gathered rocks in a river bed, had the teenagers reenact the rock throwing. (If they'd been Palestinians, would they have been arrested? ) And on to Bet Shemesh, where Samson and Delilah lived. Then to Tel Aviv... mainly in the old section, and in the old sea port of Jaffa. Pretty, small port. And had a Palestinian/ Lebanese meal. Either you loved it (very tasty, lots of different savories, spices, etc.) or hated it (problematic cleanliness - I'd venture to say more in our imagination). No one got sick, that I know of. More depends on what you're used to.

Then back in the sardine can for the overnight flight to Newark. Stand in line after line after line there. And back in a smaller can for the flight to Dallas. HOME! There is no place like it... perhaps Jerusalem, eventually.

Here's the web site for more pics (if you can stay awake for even more...)

http://cid-f4486a935d4a5aa2.photos.live.com/summary.aspx?sa=751499131

Thanks to each of you for bearing with this, and I hope you've enjoyed travelling with the Crossroads group. I don't think there will be any more posts for this series, but if something happens regarding the trip, I'LL BE BACK!!!!

Greg

Day 9: Jerusalem

Day 9, Jerusalem - Model of Jerusalem at Herod’s time, the Shrine of the Book (Dead Sea Scrolls), Yad Vashem Holocaust Memorial, the Garden Tomb (and the Place of the Skull).

The Jerusalem model is huge - probably 70’ x 70’. Shows the relationship of the Temple with the other structures in the city - Herod’s palace, Pilate’s palace, the other spots. Doesn’t show where Golgotha would have been - that’s not known for sure. But the model illustrates how the temple dominated the landscape in Jerusalem.

The model is next to the Shrine of the Book, where the Qumran scrolls are housed and copies displayed, and the Aleppo Codex is displayed. Until the Dead Sea Scrolls were found, the oldest Jewish bible known was the Aleppo Codex, written around 1000 AD. For whatever reason, no Torah (Law) or Tanech (whole Old Testament ) older than 1000 yrs is known of, other than the Dead Sea Scrolls. It is interesting that 20 copies of Isaiah were found in Qumran, and one copy is virtually complete. A copy of this is displayed in the Shrine of the Book. (The Aleppo Codex, original, is also displayed. No photography allowed inside here.)

Yad Vashem. I really don’t know what to say about this. Physically, the museum walks you through the prejudices of Christians through the ages, including mass murders especially by the Crusaders. Then through the vicious turn the prejudices took with the Nazis in Germany. Ironically, ‘only’ about 250,000 German Jews were left to kill there. (Roughly half saw ‘the hand writing on the wall’ and escaped). But 3,000,000 in Poland. Almost 1,000,000 in Russia. Another 2,000,000 in the rest of Europe, and some in North Africa. Altogether 6,000,000 people killed. Unfathomable. Yet somehow, out of this absolute horror, something good has come. After 2,000 years of the Diaspora, the Jews have a homeland. Who can doubt God’s hand?

The Garden Tomb. There’s nothing definite saying this was the site of Jesus’ crucifixion and burial, but it fits the description in the gospels. The hillside looks very like a skull, and it’s just outside a 1st century gate (where the Romans would have wanted to display criminals). There was a tomb discovered, in what would have been a garden. It felt right, and it’s in Jerusalem. But He’s not there - He is risen!

Concluded with communion in a chapel on the Garden Tomb grounds. The Nunns (all 5) did an excellent job of readings and explanations from Luke, Mark, and John. Nuns don't usually preach, but this was fine, as long as they don't make a habit of it. (Only the Catholic/parochial graduates are expected to get that. But BOOO anyway!)

No more blogs ‘til we get home. It’s fly time tomorrow! But we do have some sight seeing scheduled - Elah Valley where David slew Goliath, possibly Bet Shemesh, maybe Old Jaffa. We’ll see. I'll write one last blog when we get home.

Greg

Day 8 - Jerusalem

Day 8, Jerusalem - Dome of the Rock / Temple Mount, Pools of Bethesda, St. Anne’s, Via Dolorosa, Church of the Holy Sepulcher, Cardo St., Herodian and Byzantine ruins, the Southern Steps … Information overload.

Up early (6:15) to be on the Temple Mount before it closes… the Muslims, who control the Temple Mount, close it to tourists at 9:00 AM, so you have to be there relatively early. The Temple Mount is a very large area, probably ½ mine one direction and ¼ mile the other. At the South end is El Aqsa (sp?) Mosque, and in the middle is the Dome of the Rock. The Mosque is where worship takes place; the Dome of the Rock is a shrine over Mt. Moriah where Islamic tradition has Mohammed ascending to heaven (temporarily, in a dream) - but he came back. The North end has an Islamic school for what looks like Jr.. High and High Schoolers. The Israelis captured the area in 1967 but gave it back, presumably so the 1.5 billion Muslims in the world wouldn’t declare Jihad to regain one of their holy places back.

We sang in St. Anne’s, a crusaders’ church with amazing acoustics - the others enjoyed singing, and I enjoyed listening. Walked along the Via Dolorosa. No reason to think it was Christ’s actual path, but it’s been the traditional one for a thousand years. Arrived at the Church of the Holy Sepulcher… there have been churches on top of the traditional crucifixion and burial sites since Helena, Constantine’s mother, declared this the place in 325 AD. Lots of icons, statues, candles, incense, and tourists.

During the walk along the Via Dolorosa and from the Christian Quarter to the Jewish Quarter, we walked through the Bazaars (Soqs) or shopping areas… for people used to the Malls of Texas, it was slightly claustrophobic, but interesting nonetheless.

The Jordanians controlled the old city of Jerusalem from 1948 to 1967 and leveled the Jewish Quarter… actually, a good thing for archeologists; they could dig for older ruins. To rebuild, the Israelis built new strructures on pillars, and exposed older, Herodian and Byzantine ruins. Cardo St. was one of these areas - Byzantine.

Had lunch overlooking the Temple Mount. Falafels, salmon.

Last tour stop was the Southern Steps. This was the main entrance to the 2nd Temple, and had been buried when the Temple Mount was destroyed in 70 AD. This area was just reopened a couple of years ago. It was the main public entrance during Jesus’ time; a triple arch entry gate, and a double arch exit gate.

Then, for those who could still walk, some more shopping. Not enough time (or inclination) to revisit the Western (Wailing) Wall.

As I said before, information overload. So much history over nearly 4000 years - the Canaanites originally settled the area, and it may have been the home of Melchizedek (Salem?), the Jews from David to 70 AD, Romans/Byzantines to 800 AD, Muslims/ Crusaders/ Marmalukes/ Turks/ Jordanians/ and, finally, Israelis. And it’s all there, in stone.

Tomorrow, the Holy Land model, Yad Vashem Holocaust museum, Shrine of the Book, and the Garden Tomb (and Golgotha). Short day. (??!!!!!)

I may not upload a picture for today… lots of visuals, but nothing can capture the range of things we’ve seen.

Day 7: Up to Jerusalem

Day 7 - Mount of Olives, Garden of Gethsemane, City of David, Jewish Quarter, Western Wall and tunnels, Water Works

The day was too full!!!

We drove from the Dead Sea to the Mount of Olives, bypassing Bethany because it’s a Muslim town which is behind the walls Israel’s built to prevent terrorists from entering Israel. First stop, the top of the Mount of Olives overlooking the Dome of the Rock, the Temple Mount, the Golden Gate, etc. Breathtaking. Down to a garden on the slopes (Gethsemane?) - some very old olive trees, and quieter than the streets. Prayer and lesson time. All this is in the Muslim Quarter, but several Catholic and Eastern/ Greek/ Russian Orthodox churches.

To the Jewish Quarter, and down to the City of David (I thought the City of David was a part of Jerusalem but it’s actually outside the old city, and below the Temple Mount). Down to the water works - a very deep tunnel built by David to provide water when the city was under siege by enemies). To David’s tomb which is also the traditional site of the upper room (under renovation, couldn’t get in).

After dinner, back to the Old City - through metal detectors (memo to self: self, leave pen knife home next time.) Looked at the Western (wailing) Wall - absolutely amazing - Jews praying at the wall - modern, ultra Orthodox, whatever. To the tunnels - originally a support structure to allow the Muslim quarter to be built above. The external Western Wall is only about 75 yards long, but it continues 1/3 of a mile North under the Muslim quarter, and the tunnels follow it there. Back to the hotel at 9:30, and …

…a 6:15 wakeup call to be able to go to the Temple Mount before it closes at 9:00 AM. Then Western Wall (again), Southern steps to the Temple, Via Dolorosa, St. Anne’s Church, Church of the Holy Sepulcher, Bethesda (pools), and shopping (unfortunately).

This has got to be the most amazing city in the world, for its confluence of peoples and cultures. All monotheists meet here - Catholics to born - again Christians, ultra orthadox Jews with their ‘funny’ curls, coats, hats, etc. to conservative, reform, and secular Jews, and secular to fundamentalist Muslims. Probably a few radical/ extreme/ terrorist types, too, but I couldn’t spot them. This is God’s city.

Day 6.5 - Leadership

Day 6.5.… a tribute to our leaders
I’ve been describing the places we’ve been but that’s only part of what we’ve been experiencing here. There is truly a sense of getting closer to God - His Word, and what He’s done for us here in the Holy Land.
I wanted to take a break from describing things, and say something about the people who’ve put this trip together. (In no particular order.)
Cinde Keller, the travel agent, has done a wonderful job of coordinating all the travel, from the airlines through the agents here in Israel. She’d done this many time before from Dallas, but had only traveled along once previously. She’s gently and quietly guided us through the hassles of the crowds, getting tickets, bags, etc. As one example, she did a terrific job of getting our overnight bags rerouted when they had to be checked, then the plane delayed in Dallas (without her, I don’t know if we’d even have made the Newark -> Tel Aviv flight. Thanks, Cinde.
Steve has done a wonderful job of teaching, leading, and keeping us going. He’s been our teaching pastor for a while now, and I’ve truly enjoyed and learned a lot from his sermons. But he’s demonstrated a depth of knowledge and understanding here that is truly impressive. His teaching, guidance, and leadership has been spot on, and we all have been very impressed and appreciative. (When he leads another trip Phyllis and I may sign up again, it’s been so enjoyable!) Thanks, Steve.
And Leor. Words cannot express… but I’ll try. Leor has been absolutely amazing. He’s firstly a Christian (born Jewish), so gives us a faith based perspective on the things we see. He has a tremendous depth of knowledge of the history of Israel (from the Canaanites through the Old Testament times, Jesus’ time, and recent Israeli/ Zionist history. He’s given us and extensive background on the Israeli - Palestinian situation (from an Israeli perspective, of course.) He’s been an amateur (semi pro?) archeologist on some of the digs around, so can gives a perspective on how discoveries have been made, what’s significant and what’s not, why they don’t find some articles yet an overabundance of other things. He’s gregarious, and really enjoys the people he’s with. He’s also a part time jeweler, but that’s another matter. Everyone who’s around Leor loves him. His testimony is amazing… see below. Thanks, Leor
Ah, Leor… he’s Jewish, but accepted Christ many years ago. His testimony is too long to describe here, but a summary… he’d become good friends with those at Fellowship Bible Church in Dallas. About 10 years ago, a bacterial infection had attacked and severely damaged his heart, and he needed a new one or he was going to die. By faith, Fellowship decided to bring him to Dallas. One member had excess airline miles, and donated them for the trip. Another was on staff at Southwest Medical Center, and was able to get him into the transplantation program. A wealthy lady from England (separately from Fellowship) had known Leor from earlier trips, heard of his problem, and donated enough money for the transplant. And a heart became available just 10 days after Leor arrived in Dallas. Separately, fortunate coincidences. Together , a God thing.

ps - Remember that tree on top of the tel at Bet Shean? It formed the cover for the album for the musical, 'Jesus Christ, Superstar'.

Day 6 - Masada, The Dead Sea

First we visited Masada, the fortress on top of cliffs (a Horst, in geologic terms) built by Harod and occupied by the Zealots during the Jewish Revolt of 70 AD, when the Temple in Jerusalem was destroyed. There’s been a lot of reconstruction of the palaces and fortifications on top of the mountain, as it is a tremendous symbol for present day Israelis of their determination to remain free and to worship God. A half dozen of the younger ones walked up; the wiser ones rode the cable car. It’s 1200 feet from the base to the top of Masada.

For those who don’t know the story, the Zealots occupied Masada in 70 AD when the Romans destroyed Jerusalem, hoping that, because the fortress was virtually impregnable, the Romans would give up and leave them be. Instead, the Romans built a ramp to breach the fortifications. The night before the Romans were to enter the fortress, all 960 Jews committed mass suicide rather than be taken as slaves to the Romans.

The rest of our day has been spent by the Dead Sea, resting. Might seem a bit lazy, but we really are on information overload. So much to see, become aware of, realize the significance of.

We were able to bathe in salt water pools at the hotel. The water is saturated - something like 38% salt. You don’t float, you bob. Easy to ‘turn turtle’, as your center of gravity is higher in the dense water. Don’t want to get the water in your eyes, but the water is very slick on your skin, as if you had a layer of oil on it.

I couldn't take a good overview photo of Masada, so downloaded one off the internet. I took the pic of the cliff. More photos at
http://cid-f4486a935d4a5aa2.skydrive.live.com/browse.aspx/Israel%20Day%206?nl=1&uc=13&isFromRichUpload=1

Tomorrow, Jerusalem.

Day 5 - Galilee to the Dead Sea, via Bet Shean, Qumran, and En Gedi

We were here in Israel 30 years ago, and the biggest difference I’ve noticed so far is that so much of the land which had been fallow is now being cultivated. The Israelis claim new farming techniques which conserve water (principally drip irrigation and covering with plastic for a greenhouse effect). Sure seems to work. The Jordanians on the other side of the river (Jordan) are using the same techniques. They’ve changed the desert to ‘a land flowing with milk and honey’.

One other big difference - we see a whole lot fewer Palestinians (Arabs, Muslims) than we did 30 years ago. Where’d they go?

First visit, to Bet Shean - a Roman city never visited (at least no visit recorded) by Jesus. When Saul and his sons were killed by the Philistines, their bodies were hung on the walls of Bet Shean. During Christ’s time and until abt. 800 AD, it was a Roman town. An earthquake destroyed it, burying the city and all its valuables, so no one looted the ruins as happened in other cities. So there was a lot more ‘finds’ here than elsewhere. Amazing reconstruction - took too many pictures.

A short drive to Gideon’s Spring, below Mt. Gilboa, where the 2000 were reduced to 300 to demonstrate God’s power, and defeated the Midianites.

Qumran, where the Dead Sea Scrolls were discovered in 1947. Scrolls were eventually found in roughly a dozen different caves. This discovery put the lie to those claiming the Bible (at least the Old Testament) had been changed over the years. The oldest Jewish copy of the OT was about 1000 years old; the Dead Sea Scrolls were transcribed roughly in Jesus’ time, by the Essenes. (They didn’t have the New Testament to transcribe, of course!!!!) The Dead Sea Scrolls are arguably the greatest archeological find (certainly biblical find) of the 20th century - read up on it!

Headline from CNN tonite… THE ESSENES NEVER EXISTED!!! READ ALL ABOUT IT!!!

http://www.time.com/time/world/article/0,8599,1885421,00.html?cnn=yes

Any bet you never hear that headline again???

En Gedi - and oasis or fresh water spring due west of the Dead Sea, where David hid in a cave, and could have slain Saul when Saul ‘had his pants down’ (literally). Fascinating spot - flowing water from the side of the hill; lots of caves around. They’re bottling the spring water and selling it all around Israel; they’re using the rest of the water to farm.

The Dead Sea, Northern part, has fallen/ evaporated several feet in the last decade or 2 because all the inflow’s being used for irrigation. But the Southern part has been dammed up, and water pumped from the North to keep it full, so the tourists have some salt water to bathe in, and so the cosmetic industry can continue to sell mud from here, and produce medicinal salts. I’ll leave it to those of the female persuasion to comment on the efficacy of the mud packs.

Tomorrow, Masada, and a swim in the salt lake (lowest point of land on earth).

ps -for mature audiences only - who recognizes this picture of a tree?
Hint... Superstar!!!

(answer tomorrow, if I remember)

Day 4: Galilee - Dan, Caesarea Philipi, Golan Heights

Dan, Caesarea Phillipi, the Golan Heights (with wine tasting for the church group!).

Got up at 5:30 AM for the sunrise. Very good, not great. We’re tough to please.

Dan is the site of a Caananite city later occupied by Isrealites. Earliest occupation 3700 years ago. The Caananite city gates have been found - they were made from mud bricks, so didn’t last very long. It’s amazing archeologists were able to isolate the gates - they were part of the soil by this time.

The Israeli area had been excavated. The temple area had been used to worship other gods as well as Jehovah, in keeping with locals’ practices. Dan was a part of the Northern Kingdom - all the kings were bad. This was the first area occupied by the Assyrians; they wiped out the 10 lost tribes of Israel in the northern kingdom.

Dan is also the headwaters of the Jordan. It’s amazing how much water flows out of the rocks as a spring here; it must originate in the hills around Dan, and flow through extensive fracture system. Beautiful semi tropical area, with natural maples, birch, etc.

Caesarea Philipi was a largely Roman city dedicated to Pan with many other temples to Zeus and other pagan deities. It’s the one pagan city Jesus seems to have come near, at least as far as is written in the bible. This is where Jesus asked, “and who do you say I am?” - and upon that rock He built His church. Lionel Garcia gave an excellent reading and teaching here.

This had another very large spring, the headwaters of the Hermon river, a tributary to the Jordan. Lots of water. The pagan temples carved from the side of the hill were very impressive. Some of the old city of Caesarea Philipi had been excavated, not much.

After lunch we drove up the Golan Heights to Mount Bental, overlooking the Golan on one side and Syria on the other. Lots of fortifications, and excellent overview of the surrounding areas. On the way we received a capsule history of Israel from our guide, a Messianic Jew named Leor. Excellent presentation, and I learned a lot, but very definitely a history from the Israeli viewpoint. I have a close, old friend who was born in Amman, Jordan, whose parents were Palestinian. He gives a very different story. Who’s right? What’s your viewpoint? I think….. I’d better save it for now.

Tomorrow, the Dead Sea.

Day 3: Galilee - Mt of Beatitudes, Capaernaum, Baptism

Galilee - Mount of Beatitudes, a boat ride and a look at a preserved boat from Jesus’ time, Capernaum, lunch featuring St Peter’s fish, and finally baptism in the Jordan.

You could see how Jesus could speak to a crowd on the Mount of Beatitudes - large rocks in the untilled portion of the land, good for sitting on. (Wonder if many had been cleared from the field over the intervening 2000 years.) But very real.

The boat ride gave a feel for how the lake - err, Sea of Galilee was for fishermen in the first century. You could see home most of the time, but if a storm came up, visibility would be lost, and it could be frightening. And the vessel in the boat museum looked little bigger than a rowboat (12 men in a 15’ long boat?). I don’t know how they steered those vessels - the rudder wasn’t used on seagoing vessels until about the 1700s. Waves wouldn’t be too high (the lake is too small) but choppy, windy and dangerous with a storm.

Capernaum also was very much a hands-on experience. They’ve done a lot of excavation at the site - the foundations of houses all rebuilt to show where they’d been. The synagogue is the same as when Christ taught there - rebuilt after the Jews were driven from Jerusalem, but in the same spot, and with the same foundation.

The lunch was pretty good - fresh St Peter fish (a species of Tilapia) at a Kibbutz on the East shore, below the Golan Heights. (We’re due to go there tomorrow, with some Israeli ‘67 war history.) Lots of people didn’t want the whole fish - eyes staring up at you, etc. Cheese pizza for the weaker ones.

Baptism was a highlight. Lots of others getting dipped, but there was enough space for us to have a good, cohesive time. COLD water, but you’ve got to suffer some to appreciate it. 22 people were baptized, including Phyllis. Steve may try to upload some pics to the Crossroads web site tonight.

A good day.

The pics wouldn't upload again, so I created a photo gallery. Click here to see the pretty pics.

http://cid-f4486a935d4a5aa2.skydrive.live.com/browse.aspx/Israel?authkey=An*EHCkNlTI%24&ct=photos

Day 2: Caesarea to Tiberius (Sea of Galilee)

Long day. First to Caesarea (Harod the Great built as the primary seaport in Israel; Paul spent abt 2 years in ‘house arrest’ here. Peter came here and preached to the Centurian after he had a vision from God showing him that all animals were gifts from God and OK to eat). 9 mile long aquaduct to Caesarea built by Harod. Miggido - one of the most recent levels of ruins here is from Solomon’s time. Overlooks Jezreel, Armageddon valleys. Mount Carmel; overlooks Armageddon also. Then to Tiberias and the Sea of Galilee.

The land is very green (spring rains, plus a lot of irrigation). But all of Israel’s water comes from the Sea of Galilee, and that’s down 15’ from ‘normal’. I wonder if they’ll be able to continue their current water usage.

Sorry - the pics are out of order. I'll try to upload correctly next time. The top pic is on Tel Meggido - 25 layers of ruins. Looks out over Argameddon. A recently discovered grave, similar to the one Jesus was buried in. An Isreaeli air force base, mostly under ground, in Jezreel Valley. And the aquaduct and amphitheater in Caesarea.

Day 1: Landing

Arrived Tel Aviv 3:30, took the bus to Netanya. Drove past the new walls Israel has erected around the Muslim West Bank towns. The walls were opposed by a lot of people, but they’ve definitely been effective in stopping the suicide bombers who were terrorizing Jewish cities, especially Tel Aviv.
Couldn’t take a decent picture of the walls from the bus at 60 mph, but here’s the best I have.

Day 0: Travel

Left Dallas 2 hours late, and had to check the carryon, which missed the connection in Newark to Tel Aviv. But the bags caught up with us and we’re all together now.
Bruce and Brett Ousley came another route (AA via Chicago and London) and were a bit late, but made it to the first night hotel in Netanya
Here’s a picture of us on the plane.

day 0: Preparations

OK, tomorrow we fly. Not packed, but did find our passports. (That's not a trivial undertaking.)

Phyllis is in the other room, packing. I should ddo the same, but there's only so much room. That's my excuse, and I'm sticking with it.

Here's a stock photo of The Dome of the Rock - just to whet your apetite.

day 00: Preparations

OK, Ian, it's all your fault. I've never done this before so it will be amateurish, disconnected, and worse, boring. But I'd been thinking of writing down thoughts during our trip to Israel, and this is as good an excuse as any to do so. Will add a pic or too as well, if I remember.

We're flying Continental via Newark, overnight to Tel Aviv. Used to be able to sleep on those long flights, but no more. Arrive midday, to the hotel; up and touring the next morning. The older I get, the less I like travelling.

Greg